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Base Camp
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- Statistics:
- Date Hiked: June 1, 2003
- Miles Hiked: 5.0
- Elevation Gain: 4,478'
- Hiking Partner(s): Dan
Robbins
- Description:
- There are 9 peaks in Idaho over 12,000', and Lost River Peak is number six on the
12er list at 12,078'. Seven down, two to go.
- The Lost River Peak is located to the east of the Mackay Reservoir.
To get the trailhead turn east off Highway 93 at milepost 115 onto Upper
Creek Road. This road is well marked with a sign. Turn east on Upper Cedar Creek road off of Highway 93
exactly at milepost 115. Drive 3.1 miles east and right after crossing a canal, turn
left and head northwest next to the canal. There was about a foot of water in
the canal, so although a passenger car might make it, I would recommend
a high clearance vehicle. In addition, the going from here
remained a bit rough. After .1 mile (1/10th) next to the canal,
turn right and drive .9 mile (9/10ths) to the trailhead.
- I didn't anticipate returning to the Lost River Range as soon as I did
after attempting this peak a couple of weeks ago, but things worked out
and I made the trip this time with Dan Robbins. We left Boise
Saturday afternoon to make the drive and sleep at the trailhead in order
to get an early start. I upgraded my beer from Pabst to Moose
Drool, and after we drank one, we went to bed for a fitful night of
sleep. Although I wouldn't exactly call it an alpine start, we
awoke at 3:40 and were on the move shortly after 4:00.
- We made the first section of the climb in the dark after having a bowl
of cookie crisp that didn't sit too well with Dan. After a while,
his stomach settled and we began making great time to the entrance of
the super gully. The initial portion of the hike is relatively
straight forward, but it was still steep and required effort from the
start. When we made it to the tree line, the headlamps were off
and we identified a distinct trail in the scree that leads to the super gully.
- From this point, it was only about 25 minutes of hiking before we hit
the snow. After slight hesitation, we strapped on the crampons and
began testing our snow climbing skills (or lack thereof). The
immediate reaction to the crampons was bitter sweet. Although we
noticed a bit more weight, the solid footing and stability the crampons
provided far outweighed any disadvantages. We adjusted our walking
and got used to crampons quickly. Snow conditions were next to
perfect as our points bit into the snow but our boots stayed firmly on
top.
- As we moved up, the gully got steeper and steeper. In several areas we
passed avalanche, rock fall remnants, and scree that laid on top of the
snow for several hundred feet at a time. For the most part, we
traversed back and forth across the gully until the final steepest
section to the top of the super gully. At this point, we started
climbing straight up planting a foot, then the ice axe, then the other
foot, and finally placing our hand. I attempted to always have
three limbs down which wasn't hard considering the 40 to 50 degree angle
we were at. This is a class 3 scramble and I would consider it a
grade II climb with moderate to steep snow.
- Once on top the gully, the mountain opened up to an enormous scree and
talus field. We elected to proceed to the right, remove the
crampons, and work our way up to the ridge line. In my opinion,
the grade didn't relent much; however, I would say there was less
exposure due to the fact that we maneuvered above a large flat outcropping,
and also because arresting a fall in the rocks would have been easier
than on steep solid snow. Initially the rock was extremely loose
and rotten and it was two steps forward and one step back.
Approximately half way up the talus tightened and the climbing became
somewhat easier.
- After we made it to the ridge, we caught our first look at the true
summit and we were in the sun for the first time all day. We
peeked over the snow cornice seeing how the bottom of it was giving away
in sections. The climb from here to the summit was very similar to
that of Mount Breitenbach. We made our way up the ridge to the
south summit on relatively good rock staying very near to the actual
ridge line. It didn't take long to reach the south summit where a
wooden stick was stuck into a rock cairn and we were able to see clearly
to the north.
- On the summit ridge, we were only able to avoid putting the crampons
on for a short period of time. We scrambled over a crumbling point
on the ridge, and after additional hesitation, put the crampons back
on. At first, we were both a bit anxious, but we simply stayed to
the left away from the immediate edge of the snow and were on the summit
before we knew it.
- We only stayed long enough to take a number of photos and sign the
summit register. We were the second team of individuals to climb
the peak this year. Even in the 15 to 20 minutes on top, the snow
was softening and we headed back down. In hindsight, this didn't
pose a problem in the gully as it was protected from the sun for a large
portion of the morning. Regardless, from the summit to the top of
the scree field was easy going. It was at this point when I made a
error in judgment and took off scree skiing down the slope not staying
even with Dan. Although I made it to the bottom of the scree field
quickly, I then had to sit and listen to the rocks flying by and be ready to
take cover if needed.
- Anyway, once we worked back out onto the snow, we stayed parallel and
began to feel the burn in our thighs as we baby-stepped our way
down. Although this section coming back down on the scree in the
summer is likely very fast, we were slowed considerably due to the snow
and its steepness. After we made to the bottom of the gully, we
removed the crampons, did a bit of glissading, and hiked back to the
trailhead. We drove to Arco to have lunch at Pickles Place and
then drove back to Boise.
- It took us 5 hours and 25 minutes to summit and 2 hours and 55 minutes
to descend. Although one guidebook
suggests that this is a 5 to 8 hour round trip, I think our time was
respectable. I do not think that I would want to climb this peak in
any other conditions. The weather cooperated, the snow remained
solid, and I had a good climbing partner. This was
definitely one of the best hikes I have been on. With that being
said, I would caution anyone attempting this peak at anytime to be in
good shape, and be prepared to deal with rock fall, steep loose
scree/talus, and a descent amount of exposure.
- Maps:
- Click here to view a 2D map of
the area where this hike is located.
- Click here to view a 2D map of
the area where this hike is located.
- Click here to view a
3D map of
the area where this hike is located.
- Photographs:
- Disclaimer: These photos do not do justice to this trip.
- Lost River Peak from the highway.
(Note: The true summit is approximately .25 mile behind the summit
you see in some of these photos.)
- This is a close up from the same distance
away.
- It was amazing how different the mountain looked in just two
weeks. This is a comparison shot taken on
May 16th and again on June 1st.
- Unfortunately most of the photos I took were on the way up when the
light wasn't the greatest. Anyway, this picture was taken just
after leaving the tree line and heading for the
entrance of the super gully .
- It was at this point, before we made it to narrow section of the super
gully, when we hit snow and the crampons went
on.
- We are getting closer to the start of the
narrow chute of the super gully.
- Starting up the very narrow and steep portion
of the gully.
- Dan climbing with crampons and an ice axe.
- Approximately one third of the way up the gully.
- Approximately half way up the gully.
(Photo was obviously taken on the way down as evidenced by the light.)
- Dan climbing in the middle of the chute.
- The clear point on the top of the snow is the south summit. This
photo is taken just before rounding the top gate of
the super where the mountain opens up into a large and loose
talus/scree field.
- Dan making the final and steepest push to the
top of the super gully.
- This is the enormous scree/talus field at the
top of the mountain. Had we stayed to the left, we would have
remained on snow to the south summit. We elected to go right,
remove the crampons, and proceed up the talus to the snow free ridge.
- Our first look at the actual summit of Lost River
Peak which is the farthest point to the right. We were able to
keep our crampons off until just past the small point in the center of
the photo.
- The rock was relatively tight compared to the large talus field on the
way up to the south summit.
- I thought this was a great shot of the summit
ridge.
- Dan on the large snow cornice just before the summit
of Lost River Peak.
- This was my seventh twelver.
- There was a golf club on the summit block. Here is Dan
teeing up a snow ball and taking a swing.
- The Lost River Range to the north including
Donaldson, Church, Borah, and Breitenbach.
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