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Base Camp
Up
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- Statistics:
- Date Hiked: January 11, 2008
- Miles Hiked: 2.0 (Estimate)
- Elevation Gain: 1,300' (Estimate)
- Hiking Partner(s): Brian
Kooienga
- Routes: WI3+ (3 Pitches)
- Description:
- For our
second day of climbing we continued with a conservative route that we
felt was within our abilities. “Smoked Turkey” is near the end of the
South Fork. The approach was a bit longer and more tedious than the
previous day; however, it was still fairly tolerable and took us about
one hour and 15 minutes. Since Brian led two short pitches and I had
one long pitch the previous day, we decided to reverse roles for this
climb. I would be leading the first two shorter curtains while Brian
would take the longer final pitch which was “The Left Wing” finish of
“Smoked Turkey”.
- We
geared up at the base of the first 30 meter curtain. Once again, it was
harder than it looked from our first glance. There was a gradual ramp
to the base of the vertical curtain. Fortunately the ice was softer and
I didn’t have to swing quite as often to get good sticks. Yesterday’s
climb had taken a slight toll on me and although it wasn’t a real long
pitch, I still had to rest once before topping out because of its
steepness. (So much for great form.) After pulling the bulge, I put in
three screws, set up an anchor with my new Trango Alpine Equalizer, and
Brian followed.
- There
was significantly more distance and work required between pitches on
this climb when compared to our previous day. Brian coiled the rope and
we hiked several hundred meters to the base of a long wave of easy ice
we thought was the second short pitch. After I climbed it, I saw the
actual 10 meter second pitch curtain discussed in the route
description. This curtain was definitely shorter than the first;
however, I thought the steepness and difficulty remained approximately
the same. In addition, the upper section of the flow was fairly
hollow. Once on top, I quickly slung a large boulder on a flat ledge
above the curtain and Brian followed and cleaned.
-
Unfortunately, there was again quite a distance to the final pitch and
the snow got noticeably deeper. I carried the rope and broke trail on
this section since Brian would be leading the longer pitch ahead of us.
I struggled and grunted my way up the creek bed and upon reaching the
base of “The Left Wing”; Brian stated that breaking trail on our
approach to the last pitch was my best lead of the day. What a
comedian. We took a 10 minute break to refuel and hydrate before
finishing the climb. Brian did a good job leading the final pitch
resting once before topping out and belaying me on a tree anchor. The
more difficult leading and trail breaking was wearing on me. Not only
did I feel as though I followed the final pitch terribly, my right
crampon came loose which made things a bit more exciting.
- We
rappelled off a tree that had existing cord and webbing on it. There
was a walk-around for the short 10 meter curtain, and we had to build a
V-thread for the long low angle ice below the second curtain. The
descent down to the first pitch required some careful down-climbing on
ice that is easy to go up but more challenging to get down. We rapped
off another tree at the top of the first pitch and were down at our
cached gear in a reasonable time. We quickly hiked back down to the
Shoshone River and made our way to the car at the head of Cabin Creek
near the Majo Ranch. Day 2 was over and we were both still alive. It
was another successful day in my opinion.
- Maps:
- Photographs:
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