Mount Bancroft
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• Statistics:
  • Date Hiked:  May 4, 2008
  • Miles Hiked:  7.9
  • Elevation Gain:  3,030'
  • Hiking Partner(s):  Jeff Kunkle & Jeff Shafer
• Description:
  • I've wanted to climb Bancroft's east ridge ever since buying Dave Cooper's "Colorado Scrambles" book after finishing the 14ers.  I recently purchased Dave Cooper's "Colorado Snow Climbs" book which also has the route as a winter climb.  Both Jeffs inquired about hiking something this particular weekend so I suggested Mount Bancroft.  Everyone read a few trip reports and decided to give it a go.  This hike has a little of everything to offer in terms of terrain; a snowshoe hike, some steeper snow climbing, snow bridge crossings, a long rappel, a very short technical pitch, a bit of class 4 climbing, and lots of class three scrambling.  I thought it was a really fun route, and we had very good weather.  We had to park at the intersection of Alice and Stewart Roads and didn't reach the notch/rappel for approximately 2 hours and 20 minutes.  We summitted in 5 hours and hung out on the top of Mount Bancroft for 45 minutes before descending down the southeast ridge of Bancroft.  I think the pictures speak for themselves in this trip report.
• Maps:
  • Click here to view a 2D map of the area where this hike is located.
• Photographs:
  • Mount Bancroft on the approach from just below Loch Lomond.
  • A close-up of Mount Bancroft and the east ridge from near Loch Lomond.
  • Jeff K. pointing out our objective for the day below Lake Caroline.
  • The east ridge of Mount Bancroft from near it's base.
  • Jeff K. and Jeff S. starting up the east ridge on firm neve snow.
  • Another photo of Jeff and Jeff crossing one of several sections of snow on the ridge.
  • Jeff S. kicking steps across the first narrow snow bridge we encountered.
  • Jeff S. is starting to scramble as Jeff K. follows across the snow bridge.
  • James rappelling into the notch.
  • Jeff K. rappelling into the notch.
  • Jeff S. rappelling into the notch.
  • Jeff K. took a sequence of photos as I climbed the very short crux of the ridge.  This section could probably be free-climbed; however, we had the rope and gear so we saw no reason not to protect it.  It was a good first rock lead for me.
  • Crux 1
  • Crux 2
  • Crux 3
  • Jeff S. climbing the rock section of the route from Jeff K's. vantage point.
  • Jeff S. climbing the rock section of the route from James' vantage point.
  • Jeff S. was happy to be out of the cool confines of the notch and back in the sun.
  • Jeff K. climbing the rock section of the route from the top of the short pitch.
  • Another longer snow bridge that Jeff and Jeff kicked steps across for me.
  • Jeff S. (top) and Jeff K. (bottom) scrambling up a steeper section of the ridge.
  • James following the Jeffs with a clear view of our tracks across the snow bridge below.
  • Some skiers/snowboarders silhouetted against Grays and Torreys Peaks on the southeast ridge of Mount Bancroft.
  • Jeff S. scrambling with the difficulties of Bancroft's east ridge below.
  • Jeff K. on a fairly exposed move or two.
  • Two hikers on a snow field near the summit of James Peak to the north.
  • It had warmed up nicely as we approached the summit.
  • Jeff S. and James on the summit.
  • Jeff K. on the summit.
  • James Peak
  • Parry Peak
  • A close-up of the notch from near Lake Caroline.
  • A profile of the east ridge of Mount Bancroft.

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