Longs Peak (IV)
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• Statistics:
  • Date Hiked:  June 14, 2008
  • Miles Hiked:  11.0
  • Elevation Gain:  5,000'
  • Hiking Partner(s):  Brian Kooienga, Jeff Shafer, Kevin Smith
• Description:
  • Approximately one year ago, Brian and I climbed the Notch Couloir on Longs Peak.  We rappelled off of the back side of Longs and traversed to the Homestretch to finish the climb.  Jeff and Kevin have wanted to climb this route for quite some time, so the four of us returned this year to climb it together as two independent teams.  Jeff and I bivied at Chasm Lake Friday night while Brian and Kevin decided to day-hike the trip.  We all met at the base of the Lamb's Slide Couloir at 4:00 am.  Brian and Kevin were already a couple hours into their day while Jeff and I were trying to get our systems going after a miserable night of sleep because of gusty winds.
  • The hike up Lamb's Slide went relatively quickly, and we regrouped at the first belay station on Broadway.  Last year, Brian and I completed the lower traverse of Broadway which required a tricky downclimb and the 5.4 step-around move.  This year, Jeff and I received good information that the high traverse was "in" and decided to give it a try.  I led the first pitch halfway across the steep traverse.  Jeff finished the traverse and proceeded to bring me across.  In the mean time, Brian and Kevin were attempting the low traverse.  As I finished the high traverse to the base of the Notch Couloir, Brian and Kevin backed off the low traverse and decided to follow Jeff and I.  Jeff led off into the Notch Couloir and we simul-climbed about one-third of the way up the Notch.  I climbed a pitch, Jeff climbed a pitch, and then I led to the actual Notch as we finished the ascent simul-climbing also.
  • Brian and Kevin followed us up the route and we regrouped at the base of the "Step Ladder"/"Staircase".  The traverse to the base of the chimney has one or two tricky moves in mountaineering boots.  Jeff did a great job leading the pitch which still had enough snow and ice in it to make it interesting.  Near the top, he actually moved to the right and exited the chimney earlier than the standard route dictates.  Jeff belayed me up the pitch as I brought Brian and Kevin's rope up behind me.  Jeff then belayed both of them up together and we congregated at the top of the ridge.  The ridge scramble to the summit kept you on your toes with a couple of exposed slabby moves to gain the summit.
  • We had the summit to ourselves and took only enough time to eat and drink some.  We scrambled down the North Face where Jeff found a rappel station above the highest eye bolt on the route.  This was once again the crux of the route for me.  I did much better than last year, but down climbing steep snow with a fair amount of exposure isn't my forte.  We tied our ropes together at the high rappel station and were able to get all the way down to the snow slope with only one rappel.  Near the Boulder Field, we parted ways as Brian and Kevin hiked out the main trail and Jeff and I descended the Camel route back down to Chasm Lake and our cached bivy gear.  The hike out wasn't too painful, and the beer and Mountain Dew at the trailhead tasted great.
• Maps:
  • Click here to view a 2D map of the area where this hike is located.  The purple line is our descent route down the Camel of Mount Lady Washington.
• Photographs:
  • Sunrise about half way up the Lamb's Slide Couloir.
  • Looking down Lamb's Slide at Brian and Kevin.
  • The east face of Longs Peak in the early morning light.
  • The high and low traverse of Broadway from the first belay station.
  • Jeff on the second pitch of the high traverse.
  • Jeff completing the second pitch of the Broadway traverse.
  • James starting the second pitch of the high Broadway traverse.
  • James approximately half way across the third and final pitch of the Broadway traverse.
  • Jeff approximately half way across the third and final pitch of the Broadway traverse.
  • Jeff at the base of the Notch Couloir.
  • Chasm Lake from Broadway.
  • Our descent route from the Camel on Mount Lady Washington.
  • Starting the simul-climb up the Notch Couloir.
  • Looking down the Notch as it disappears over Broadway.
  • James looking down the Notch at Chasm Lake near the first ice step.
  • Jeff working his way up the couloir as James belays just below the primary constriction.
  • We climbed the left side of the constriction.
  • The narrow chute contained soft unconsolidated snow.
  • The second ice step and Jeff above the dogleg right.
  • Jeff shedding layers at the fixed gear belay station above the dogleg right.
  • Looking down at the constriction and dogleg right of the Notch Couloir.
  • James finishing the climb and heading toward the actual Notch.
  • Jeff finishing the climb and approaching the Notch.
  • Jeff leading the Staircase finish to the ridge of Longs Peak.
  • Kevin and Brian climbing to the right of the Staircase which still contains a fair amount of snow and ice.
  • Looking down at Jeff and Brian as they scramble up Longs Peak.
  • Mount Meeker from near the summit of Longs Peak.
  • Brian rappels the North Face as Jeff down-climbs the snow below.
  • Brian is at the top of the snow slope while Kevin finishes his rappel and I wait at the top.
  • James is halfway down the rappel as Brian waits and Kevin starts down-climbing the steep snow.
  • The Diamond of Longs Peak from our descent of the Camel on Mount Lady Washington.
  • A close-up of the North Face.

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