Middle Teton
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• Statistics:
  • Date Hiked:  July 9, 2008
  • Miles Hiked:  5.0
  • Elevation Gain:  3,204'
  • Hiking Partner(s):  Brian Kooienga and Jeff Shafer
• Description:
  • After our climb of the Grand, we decided to attempt the Middle Teton via the Middle Teton Glacier.  We wanted to keep our route relatively simply, but the Middle Teton Glacier ended up being one of the steepest snow climbs I have done.  We slept in until 6:00 am since our camp was essentially on the apron of the climb.  The initial section of the climb was easy snow climbing to the first major bergshrund where a deep runnel terminated.  From here, we doglegged right and the climbing became steeper to the col between the Dike Pinnacle and Middle Teton.  We took a break at the saddle and viewed the rest of our route.  We avoided another large bergshrund and the climbing remained steep all the way to the notch between the twin summitted Middle Teton.  There was a short scramble to the summit which we made in about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the Moraine.
  • We spent 30 minutes on top enjoying the views of the Grand and South Tetons.  We descended the Southwest Couloir which takes you to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons.  We hiked back down to the Meadows and had to regain some elevation to get back to our camp.  Our round trip time was 6 hours.  After returning to camp, we packed up and hiked back to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead.  We made good time on the hike out and were glad to have climbed a couple of Teton peaks.
  • After checking into the Climber's Ranch, we cleaned up and went into Jackson (WY) to eat at the Gun Barrel Steakhouse.  Kevin went with the Single Barrel prime rib (8 oz.), Jeff and I opted for the Double Barrel prime rib (12 oz.), and Brian ate the Grand prime rib (16 oz.).  I was initially concerned that my eyes were bigger than my stomach, but even after a beer and appetizers I think I ate mine in about 5 minutes.  We even had desert and picked up a sixer on the way back to the Climber's Rranch.
  • Thursday was a rest/tourist day.  We went into Jackson (WY) and replaced the battery in Jeff's Tahoe and then had breakfast at Bubba's.  Once again, we all ate like kings while drinking coffee and water.  We did a little shopping, checked out the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, and then went on a little road trip to check out more scenery.
• Maps:
  • No map available.
• Photographs:
  • The Middle Teton from the Grand Teton.
  • A close up of the mountain with our route up the Middle Teton Glacier.
  • Starting up the snow field below the Lower Saddle.
  • James starting up the apron of the glacier before it turns right.
  • Lower Bergshrund
  • The middle and upper sections of the route.
  • Climbing next to the runnel as the snow gets steeper.
  • Looking down the route next to the runnel.
  • Approaching the col between Dike Pinnacle and the Middle Teton.
  • Climbing above the col, we had to maneuver around some exposed rock to stay on the snow all the way to the notch.
  • Upper Bergshrund
  • Jeff and James climbing right below the notch at a small ice step.
  • Looking back down the route.
  • Brian's summit photo.
  • A close-up of the Grand Teton.
  • Jeff nearing the summit of the Middle Teton with the Grand Teton in the background.
  • Starting the descent down the Southwest Couloir.
  • Brian nearing the saddle between the Middle and South Teton with the South Teton in the background.
  • The Ellingwood Couloir on the south side of the Middle Teton leads to the same col we reached via the Middle Teton Glacier.
  • Almost back to camp.

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