Dexter Creek Slabs (1)
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• Statistics:
  • Date Hiked:  January 16, 2009
  • Miles Hiked:  1.5 (Estimate)
  • Elevation Gain:  700' (Estimate)
  • Hiking Partner(s):  Brian Kooienga & Kevin Smith
  • Routes:  WI3
• Description:
  • After driving down to Ouray (CO) late Thursday night, Brian, Kevin, and I climbed the Dexter Creek Slabs on Friday morning.  The drive only takes about 10 to 15 minutes from Ouray, and the approach was only 35 minutes.  We did have a broken trail for the hike in, so if you had to wallow through snow and break trail I think it could take up to an hour.
  • The first pitch was a short 20' to 25' step of WI3, so we quickly free-soloed it.  After about 150' to 200' of snow climbing, you are at the base of the second pitch.  We chose an easier line on the far right which kept the climbing at WI3, but there looked like steeper routes to the left of some exposed rock in the middle of the ice.  Brian led this pitch and brought Kevin and I up on a three screw anchor.  Above pitch 2 was another shorter snow climb than between pitches one and two, and then the final ice pitch of the climb.  Mountain Project rates the final pitch WI4, but it didn't feel like it to me.  There was a short section near the top that was steeper than pitch 2, but it wasn't very sustained.  I led this pitch and then brought Kevin and Brian up on an existing tree anchor.
  • We rappelled off the tree back to to the top of pitch 2.  After Brian started to pull our rope, I quickly asked if we untied the knot at the end of the rope we tied for the rappel.  Neither Brian or Kevin had, so Brian climbed back up the snow and a short ways up the ice of pitch three to untie the knot which fortunately didn't get too high.  We rappelled pitch 2 from an existing tree anchor and were able to hike down the snow and around pitch 1 without a third rappel.  Dexter Creek Slabs is a fun multi-pitch ice climb not far outside of Ouray with a relatively short approach.  If you are looking to escape the ice park for a day on some easy to moderate ice, this is the place to go.
• Maps:
  • No map available.
• Photographs:
  • Kevin gearing up with pitch 1 in the background.
  • Brian standing at the base of pitch 2 with half the snow climb above me.
  • Kevin hiking up to pitch 2 with the other half of the snow climb below me.
  • Brian starting up pitch 2.
  • Brian half way up pitch 2.
  • Brian placing protection.
  • Brian at the top of pitch 2.
  • Kevin clearing the top of pitch 2.
  • Kevin posing for the camera.
  • Pitch 3 from the top of pitch 2.
  • James starting up the ice apron of pitch 3.
  • James still on easy ice.
  • James placing protection before the short curtain.
  • James in the middle of the pitch.
  • James finishing the climb.
  • Our views throughout the morning.

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