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Base Camp
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- Statistics:
- Date Hiked: February 1, 2009
- Miles Hiked: 2.0 (Estimate)
- Elevation Gain: 500' (Estimate)
- Hiking Partner(s): Andy
Leach & Mike Wysuph
- Routes: WI4
- Description:
- Andy and Mike were going to climb at Hidden Falls a couple of weeks
ago but bailed after getting to the flow and counting no less than 15
people. Three top ropes were set up as another individual was
leading it. They wanted no part of the cluster and simply went for
a hike. We tried again on a Sunday and departed a bit
earlier. We left the trailhead shortly after 6:30 am and had
Hidden Falls to ourselves all morning long. As we hiked out around
11:30 am, there were two other parties totaling five people on the
approach.
- As suspected, the ice was pretty beat out so I decided to attempt to
lead it. I climbed the far right side of the column until about
two-thirds of the way up where I traversed further to the center.
I felt pretty good on the entire lead, although I may have rushed it
slightly. I had a foot placement scrape off at one point too;
however, my picks and other crampon were solid and I didn't get sketched
out. Despite being fairly beat out and hooking on several
occasions, the ice was somewhat brittle and definitely kept me on my
toes. As I got to the base of the main pillar, I distinctly
remember saying (quite possibly out loud) that it didn't look that steep
from the base of the climb. After slinging a large tree, I brought
Andy up then we proceeded to build an extended top-rope anchor. We
rappelled off and then just ran several laps. We even put in a
directional anchor on the bolts in the cave and each climbed the mixed
route to the far left. It was a fun, quiet day at Hidden Falls
full of quotes from Talladega Nights. "That just happened!"
Anyway, we hiked out, had a beer, and headed home to watch the Super
Bowl.
- Summit Post Description: This is a single pitch ice
climb around 85 feet tall. A single 60 meter rope will be plenty.
Ice conditions vary greatly every year, but for the most part, there are
three distinct routes on the main column. In leaner years, the
skirt will come completely in and most of the boulders at the bottom
will be completely covered in ice. In dryer years the curtain will
not come in and will be dangerous and difficult to climb. Boulders
at the base will not be covered and will offer some dry-tool variations.
The lower 15 feet of ice is a large bulge that is rated WI2. From
here there is a nice ledge where one would place protection if leading
the route. The remainder of the climb is a near vertical column of
WI4 that will get your blood flowing near the top. There is
usually not much of a bulge at the top of the climb, making an easy
exit. The left most side of the ice offers nice slightly
overhanging mixed climbing at M5+/6. This variation also leads to
two bolted anchors that are underneath the top of the falls. To
set up a top-rope, use any of the trees at the top of the climb.
- Mountain Project Description:
A nice fat flow that starts off mellow for about 20 feet up to
small ledge then about 55 feet of near vertical right up the middle of
this flow. It definitely gets the blood flowing toward the end.
Exiting left gains a tree for a top-rope anchor. Another tree to
the right/center is good for the other side. The route is wide
enough to allow two top-ropes at the same time. Some mixed terrain
is fun to attempt on top-rope on the far left side. Consensus
WI3/4
- Climbinglife.com Description: Eli Helmuth's website
rates the ice WI3+ and the mixed route M3.
- Maps:
- Photographs:
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