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Base Camp
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- Statistics:
- Date Hiked: June 19, 2009
- Miles Hiked: 8.0
- Elevation Gain: 3,940'
- Hiking Partner(s): Jeff
Shafer
- Description:
- After getting questionable beta on our initially intended route and
good information regarding the Martha Couloir on Mount Lady Washington,
Jeff and I decided to head up the Longs Peak trail again. Although
we ended up climbing the route, we didn't feel that the Martha Couloir
was in good condition. We woke up at 2:30 am and were on the road
at 3:00 am. After passing a group of 20 people also headed for
Mount Lady Washington, Jeff set a fairly fast pace and we were standing
on Chasm Lake at the base of the route in 2 hours.
- We geared up on the rocks at the base of the route and climbed a
small snow ramp to the start of the couloir. The running water at
the base Martha was our first clue that we might be having a wet day.
We scrambled up some rocks back onto steeper snow before the couloir
narrows for two technical pitches. Jeff and I climbed it
similarly to how Brian Kraus and I climbed it last year roping up for
one longer pitch and another shorter crux pitch. Despite the lack
of snow and ice on the first pitch, Jeff did a good job leading and got
5 pieces of rock gear in before anchoring in at the base of the final rock
step. Once he got a view of the upper section, he radioed
down to me and said he thought it would go but I was going to take a
shower.
- I climbed up to his anchor and couldn't have agreed more. The
ice was thin and manky making the pitch a mixed climb with a fair amount
of water running primarily down the left side. I was glad to have dusted off
my Rambos and Nomics for the trip. Although last year Brian
climbed the left side of the pitch and stemmed across the rock on the
left wall and the center ice, I wasn't going to be able to do this
without getting totally soaked. I ended up climbing the right side
sewing it up tight because of the terrible ice and snow. I slung
three rocks, clipped into a fixed piece of gear on the left side of the
route, and placed two cams in the very short pitch. I still
managed to get fairly wet, but staying totally dry was impossible.
After climbing in less than ideal conditions in the southwest couloir on
Shoshoni Peak and Martha, Jeff and I dubbed ourselves the Manky
Brothers.
- I slung a boulder, and Jeff finished the climb after peeling off the
wall cleaning a high piece of gear I placed. He said he dropped
about 5 feet from rope stretch, but I didn't even notice as I had him on
an auto-block. We huffed and puffed our way to the summit and beat
the team of 20 hikers by 5 minutes. Although I've climbed
Dreamweaver, the Notch Couloir, and Martha all twice now, I still can't
say I've had enough of this area of the Park. We completed the
round trip hike in 8 hours and 15 minutes.
- Maps:
-
Click here
to view a
map of the area where this hike is located.
- Photographs:
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www.
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