Taylor Peak Attempt
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• Statistics:
  • Date Hiked:  June 11, 2010
  • Miles Hiked:  8.5
  • Elevation Gain:  3,547'   
  • Hiking Partner(s):  Brian Kooienga & Kevin Smith
• Description:
  • Brian, Kevin, and I attempted the Southeast Face route on Taylor Peak.  We left the Glacier Gorge Trailhead around 2:30 am and made our way past the Loch, Lake of Glass, and Sky Pond.  After crossing below the Petit Grepon, we climbed a moderate snow ramp to the base of the route.  We made it up three rock pitches and got to the steep snow climbing section of the route when we had to bail.  The snow was the consistency of a slurpee with no integrity.  Since the snow wasn't climbable, we rappelled back to the base of the route and headed home.  The first 18 feet of the route is the crux at 5.6.  In crampons it felt harder than that.  Much of the climbing after this was exposed class 3 and 4.
• Maps:
  • Click here to view a 2D map of the area where this hike is located.
• Photographs:
  • Petit Grepon
  • The southeast face of Taylor Peak.
  • A close up of our route.
  • The valley below us.
  • Kevin climbing the snowfield to the base of the route.
  • Brian approaching the base of the route.
  • Brian at the base of the route as Kevin (not visible) negotiates the crux start.
  • Brian and Kevin nearing our first belay station.
  • Brian starting out on pitch three.
  • Kevin approaching our third belay station where we had to bail.
  • Kevin on rappel.
  • We caught a good glissade on the way out.

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