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Base Camp
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- Statistics:
- Date Hiked: December 29, 2011
- Miles Hiked: 2.0 (Estimate)
- Elevation Gain: 1,500' (Estimate)
- Hiking Partner(s): Jeff
Shafer
- Routes: WI4
- Description:
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Video Trip Report
- Jeff and I left Highlands Ranch (CO) at 3:30 am and arrived in Eureka
(CO) around 11:00 am after having breakfast at Starvin' Arvin's in
Montrose (CO). We changed into climbing gear and made our way up
the canyon with intentions of climbing First Gully since we were denied
by the route a couple years ago due to limited ice. As we turned
the corner, a party was on the second pitch of First Gully. We
continued up the valley to climb Second Gully, but there were at least
two parties still on this climb. We looked to the right at
Goldrush and climbers were also on this route. We turned and
looked across the valley to see a party bail off the first pitch of
Stairway to Heaven with nobody else around. So we decided to head
over and take a look at this classic ice climb in southwest Colorado.
- Jeff led out at 12:30 pm. Pitch 1 consists of two curtains
with easier ground above both steeper sections. Despite the
standard ratings, we definitely thought the second curtain was WI3+.
The pitch was a full 60 meters, and the first belay was at bolted
anchors directly in the middle of the climb. Jeff also took pitch
2 which was generally easy ground with only two shorter WI3 steps that
led to a large tree belay to the right of the start of pitch 3.
This was also a full 60 meter pitch. Fortunately for me, the crux
pillar was fairly coned out which shorted the WI4 climbing of pitch 3.
After the pillar, the grade eased to WI3 and a bush belay on the right
which I backed up with a couple of screws.
- At this point, we were feeling pretty good about our progress given
the generally late start we had and decided to continue climbing.
Jeff took pitch 4 which was probably the easiest of the 5 pitches we
climbed. It starts out on WI3 for about one-half of the climb and
then gives way to a bit of snow slogging to bolts on the right side of
the base of the final pitch. Pitch 5 was extremely wet, and after
I got two-thirds of the way up, I radioed down to Jeff and told him I
didn't think it would go. I think he was a bit surprised and told
me to do what I thought was best. Fortunately, I didn't and
decided to try and finish the climb. I buried the biggest screw I
had in solid ice, pulled my hood over my helmet for protection, and ran
out a steeper chimney of WI3+ for about 20 feet in the wettest ice
conditions I've ever climbed.
- Although the water was literally poring down the ice, my soft shell
pants and jacket did fairly well keeping my core dry. I was happy
and satisfied that we completed the climb considering it was late in the
day and relatively challenging for the two of us. I built a three
screw anchor to bring Jeff up on and suggested on the radio that he
climb fast. When he got to the "shower curtain", he understood
what I was talking about. When he pulled over the lip, I asked if
he brought his snorkel with. Jeff reached the top anchor at 3:45
pm, so given our abilities we climbed fairly efficiently with quick
belay changes and no stupid mistakes.
- All five pitches were a full 60 meters. Since it was late in
the day and nobody was below us, we decided to rappel the route. I
built a deep V-thread at the top of pitch 5 to get us to bolts at the
top of pitch 4. We rappelled pitch 4 to the frozen bush belay.
From the bush, we made it to the huge tree near the pillar at the bottom
of pitch 3 which took us to the other set of bolts above the first pitch
and back to the base of the climb. The five rappels took an hour,
so we were hiking out by 4:45. Unfortunately, we missed the last
snowmobiles heading down valley for a free ride out. After hiking
out and checking into the Prospector Motel, we headed over to Mother Cluckers for dinner and a few PBRs.
- Maps:
- Photographs:
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